C. 1930s Peter Russell couture vintage Art Deco black longline fitted crepe coat or jacket
Peter Russell W1 art deco 1930s couture longline jacket, in a tailoring weight crepe with black grosgrain collar. As described in the Vintage Fashion Guild’s label resource*, ‘his preferred aesthetic was “functional elegance”’ of which I think this is a great example! You can read about him here. I’ve also read mention of his speciality being elegant and practical haute couture clothes, particularly daytime separates.**
I am so sorry about the horrible overexposure; it was the only way to easily show details! It is a true black in reality, with no fade.
Single fastening at waist with furrier style covered hook and eye - I am pretty sure this is a later (yet still historic) addition, have left in place but could easily be removed - edge to edge slim duster style.
Yoke leads into front decorative feature, with applied zig zag detail. This zig zag is echoed in the collar and to the rear, and also to the sleeves. Its beautiful detailing.
Lined throughout including the sleeves, in what feels like a good quality taffeta.
It’s such a simple garment at a glance, but the more closely you look the more interesting it becomes, and features a mass of hand finishing and stitched details.
A stylish wardrobe staple from a renowned British couturier!
It is a slim longline fit. Modern uk 8 as per mannequin? or could work worn open by a 10 if not too broad shouldered (I tried it on and it is fitted, but not too tight across back)
Bust 36 max (34 plus some shaping)
Hips up to 38 max
Across back at piped yoke 14”
Shoulder seam to seam 16”
Sleeve head to hem 23.5”
Nape to hem approx 42”
Externally very good, with a couple of small nicks to the crepe at bottom hemline, and the odd tiny pull - overall still very presentable. Please see close ups.
A couple of little pinholes to bottom hem of lining. Please see photos.
After nearly a century I think its doing quite well and is certainly clean and wearable.
*Information courtesy of The Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource